My 48-hour exploration of Seoul, South Korea, began half a day earlier in Seattle, as I celebrated Alaska Airlines and Hawaiian Airlines’ inaugural direct flight between the two cities. Before heading to the gate, the Alaska Lounge at Seattle-Tacoma International Airport got me primed to travel across the Pacific with popular Korean dishes like kimchi fried rice and beef gochujang.

Next, a jovial, dance-filled gate-side event excited passengers and airline crew alike. “I’m obsessed with K-pop and Korean culture, and I can’t wait to go there myself,” shared one of the members of the hype team, before making me promise I’d fill my suitcase with skincare products from the ubiquitous beauty store, Olive Young. (Spoiler alert: that’s exactly what I did.)

The flight was perfectly timed for a late evening arrival into Incheon Airport: a few hours to get into the city and enjoy dinner and drinks, but not so early that jet lag had a chance to catch up.

I opted to reach Seoul via the sleek AREX Express Train, which runs non-stop from the airport to Seoul Station in under 45 minutes. The airport is the best time and place to buy a T-Money Card, the contactless payment and transportation card essential for navigating Seoul. Once out of the airport, these cards are predominantly sold in convenience stores (but not all of them), rather than in train stations, and single-trip tickets typically require cash to purchase.

Once at Seoul Station, I followed the signs to the four-line train, taking it two stops to the Myeongdong neighborhood, a vibrant, neon-lit maze of beauty boutiques, fashion stalls and sizzling street-food carts. After dropping my bags at the centrally located Moxy Seoul Myeongdong, a Marriott Bonvoy property, I returned to the streets to follow my nose to the closest delicacies.

A bowl of mouthwatering tteokbokki, a savory sweet egg bread, lamb skewers and an array of gimbap from which to choose; all of it was worth meandering the crowded streets for a taste of Seoul’s street cuisine. And it was just steps outside my hotel doors.

Despite the temptation of singing K-pop karaoke in one of the many underground bars I passed, I opted to head in for the evening. Tomorrow wasn’t just my one full day of exploration; it was my birthday as well.

The formerly packed streets were deserted early in the morning, no hint of last night’s bustle in the spotless alleyways. Breakfast is more of an at-home ritual in Korea, but I found a darling coffee shop to caffeinate me. Les Parisiens is unmissable with its flowery pink details and perfectly crafted pastries and among the city’s many specialty cafes and roasteries that have made Seoul a must-visit destination for coffee lovers. 

After enjoying a cream-filled bowtie-shaped croissant and a warm almond milk latte, I went to celebrate my birthday in true Seoul style: with a state-of-the-art beauty treatment.

The train delivered me to Aeogae station, where I had an appointment at Ecojardin for an 18-step scalp treatment with the method’s founder, Tao. After being humbled by the microscope’s assessment of my hair follicles, I relaxed into aromatherapy, massages and exfoliations, and ginseng shampooing. The steam mist hat was as amusing as it was effective: afterwards, I received so many compliments about how glossy my scalp and hair looked.

At nearly 10 million people, Seoul is a large metropolis, but many of the major sights are centrally located.

I got my bearings by taking the Namsan Cable Car (15,000 won for an adult return ticket at the time of my visit) up to the N Seoul Tower, where I took in the view of the city skyline. Although traveling alone, visiting on my birthday seemed an appropriate time to make an addition to the famous Locks of Love on the roof terrace.

Descending the Namsan summit, I made my way across the Han River to the glitzy Gangnam neighborhood to explore the futuristic, eye-catching Starfield Library in the middle of COEX Central Plaza. This free experience is beloved by bibliophiles and makes for a great photo on social media – you will probably notice quite a few people visiting for the latter reason.

It was tough to choose a dinner location with so many great options, from internationally ranked tasting menus to traditional yakiniq, or barbecue, so ultimately, I opted for a blend of both. I opted to dine in the chic Itaewon neighborhood enjoying a seven-course grilled beef-centric meal at the intimate Hue 135, where tender meat is grilled right in front of the guest by an expert chef. Upon learning I was flying home the next day, the staff gifted me their signature beef jerky for the journey.

The next day, my flight to Seattle was scheduled to depart around the same time it arrived, giving me a few hours left to explore.

I grabbed an energizing matcha drink, another classic that Seoul’s beverage purveyors have mastered, at Metcha in Myeongdong on my way to delve into the city’s history.

The train ferried me to Gyongbekong Palace to witness the changing of the guard ceremony. Established during the Joseon Dynasty in 1395, the former royal palace offers a glimpse into the country’s rich cultural history. Many guests were dressed in traditional hanbok for photoshoots, which can be rented at stores adjacent to the palace grounds.

Also by the palace, I found Nuldam Space, a vegan coffeeshop where guests are given a postcard to write to themselves or a loved one that the cafe will send at a future date. It was a sweet moment that offered a period to reflect on my adventure thus far, and I can’t wait to be surprised by the letter whenever it makes its way back to me.

I continued my historical journey on foot to Bukchon Hanok Village to explore the traditional hanok homes, wooden doors and ornate stones offering a glimpse of Seoul’s foundations. The serene streets felt like a journey into the past, especially with the hanbok-wearing visitors taking stylish photos under the angled roofs of the village.

Before heading back to Incheon Airport, I did a thorough shopping spree at one of the many Olive Young stores near my hotel, picking up as many skincare products as my luggage would allow. And once I reached the airport, I made sure to grab a few final souvenirs crafted by local artisans at the Korean Traditional Culture Center before relaxing at the oneworld^® Alliance Lounge, where Alaska Airlines’ Business Class guests, as well as Atmos™ Rewards Gold, Platinum and Titanium members, can relax before their flight.

It was a wondrous whirlwind of 48 hours, but even a small amount of time is worth dedicating to this incredible destination. And with Alaska Airlines and Hawaiian Airlines now flying directly from Seattle, it’s easier than ever.